I decided to give Zoe's bustier line t-shirt tutorial a go. I wear my knit tops often so I thought it would be nice to add a few more. I pulled out my TNT Burda 2-2011 long sleeve tee pattern. I made my first knit tee from that pattern and it was perfect. I don't think I've ever tried any other tee shirt pattern for reference but this one meets my wants-and-needs for a knit tee. Is there any reason to look for another? I did initially lengthen the pattern three inches through the waist and chopped the sleeves off just above the elbow. I like the length of the sleeve. Kind of in-between.
Now, I made up the black lace version first. I traced my pattern pieces and free-handed the subtle sweetheart shape. I cut the pieces at the sweetheart neckline and just added seam allowances when I cut from the fabric. The lace is a stretch lace I've had in my stash for ages. I have lots more of it, too. (What to make with it?) The knit is actually a double knit, so there's a little more structure to the top.
Anyway, I sewed it up carefully. I pressed seam allowances and top stitched to keep in place. I just baby hemmed the neck and sleeves. I think that worked because the lace is pretty substantial. Not a lot of open weave. Didn't try it on once until I was totally finished.
It is tight. Really tight.
I have, ahem, gained a few this summer but I was quite taken aback by how tight this top is. I couldn't have gained that much. I decided it was the knits' fault. Double knits have a tighter weave and therefore are more snug, more recovery.... That was my logic.
So I decided to make another version from a loose, drape-y t-shirt knit. Not as tight as the black version, but still- um, clingy. Still smaller than I imagined it would be.
I was starting to feel really bad about myself.
Then, in a moment of clarity while taking these pictures, I remembered.
Burda patterns don't include seam allowances!
Ha ha.
I made both of these tops without any seam allowances (except where I added them at the bustier line).
Hence the title-- I'm a knitwit.
They are still wearable and I'm sure I'll still get plenty of use from both. But there is less ease than I'm generally comfortable with. If I wear something with a higher waist, like the turquoise skirt, they both look fine. In the future, I think I'll add seam allowances when I trace Burda patterns. Or write nett pattern really large on the pieces (learned that from Metric Pattern Cutting).
No need to be so hard on myself :)
At least they still look totally normal even if you aren't as comfortable as usual. I forget the seam allowance thing sometimes too so I try to remember when I'm cutting them out to cut farther out around the traced lines. What I really want are one of those magnetic seam allowance guides that go on your scissors as you cut.
ReplyDeleteYou look great in both. I have been lucky enough to catch myself right at the moment I am going cut fabric, to realize I forgot seam allowances. I am definitely going to look for the magnetic seam allowance guide for my scissors that toferet mentioned!
ReplyDeleteWow, I love them both. Reeeeally want to make this soon...
ReplyDeleteOh that's a good one!:)) A few days ago i read on another lovely blog about the same "problem":) The only commercial patterns I ever used were Burda, so if I get my hands on some other patterns that include allowance I'd still add and probably make them baggy:D
ReplyDeleteThey look great, you can't tell they're tight at all! I love love LOVE the one with lace! I'll have to see if I can whip up something like that.
ReplyDeleteCute cute cute! especially the striped top. I love the vertical and horizontal stripes mixed together.
ReplyDeleteThey look terrific on you.
ReplyDeleteI have to write ADD SEAM ALLOWANCE on every pattern piece from Burda et al. At least you can still fit into your t shirts!
Ah, thanks everyone! They are definitely still wearable but both are just slim enough that I'm more aware of various lumps and bumps ;)
ReplyDeleteI've seen those handy little seam allowance guides. I don't usually use many sewing gadgets but that may be something worth looking in to.
i think they look great! i love the vertical stripes paired with the horizontal stripes.
ReplyDeleteI think both look great. You can't tell they're tight. I really like the neckline.
ReplyDeletei do that ALL the time with burda.... and oh egads i love that black one.
ReplyDeletei love them both, but the black one makes me want to commit crimes.
Love the way you used the stripes! I like to forget about seam allowances too- but these tops look so cute, still!
ReplyDeleteThese are AWESOME!!!!!!!!!! I'm so pleased you were inspired by my tutorial. These are seriously stunning, I'm very envious of both. I love that 1/2 length of the black sleeves, really flattering. Double knit isn't very stretchy at all is it?! Glad you uncovered the reason for the tightness you are experiencing, but really from where I'm sitting, these both look perfect on you xxx
ReplyDeletei love them both, and the black lace certainly doesn't look too tight in the photos. Great job!
ReplyDeleteWell they don't "look" tight, they look gorgeous and perfectly fitted! I think you did a great job... and maybe they will stretch a bit with wearing to be more comfy?
ReplyDeleteYou're too funny. But both of these look great! The black one can be used in any dressier situation and the striped one is so clever -- a striped shirt with a little bit of a flair.
ReplyDeleteLove them both! But th striped one is my favorite, it's soo cute!
ReplyDelete