I decided to give Zoe's bustier line t-shirt tutorial a go. I wear my knit tops often so I thought it would be nice to add a few more. I pulled out my TNT Burda 2-2011 long sleeve tee pattern. I made my first knit tee from that pattern and it was perfect. I don't think I've ever tried any other tee shirt pattern for reference but this one meets my wants-and-needs for a knit tee. Is there any reason to look for another? I did initially lengthen the pattern three inches through the waist and chopped the sleeves off just above the elbow. I like the length of the sleeve. Kind of in-between.
Now, I made up the black lace version first. I traced my pattern pieces and free-handed the subtle sweetheart shape. I cut the pieces at the sweetheart neckline and just added seam allowances when I cut from the fabric. The lace is a stretch lace I've had in my stash for ages. I have lots more of it, too. (What to make with it?) The knit is actually a double knit, so there's a little more structure to the top.
Anyway, I sewed it up carefully. I pressed seam allowances and top stitched to keep in place. I just baby hemmed the neck and sleeves. I think that worked because the lace is pretty substantial. Not a lot of open weave. Didn't try it on once until I was totally finished.
It is tight. Really tight.
I have, ahem, gained a few this summer but I was quite taken aback by how tight this top is. I couldn't have gained that much. I decided it was the knits' fault. Double knits have a tighter weave and therefore are more snug, more recovery.... That was my logic.
So I decided to make another version from a loose, drape-y t-shirt knit. Not as tight as the black version, but still- um, clingy. Still smaller than I imagined it would be.
I was starting to feel really bad about myself.
Then, in a moment of clarity while taking these pictures, I remembered.
Burda patterns don't include seam allowances!
I made both of these tops without any seam allowances (except where I added them at the bustier line).
Hence the title-- I'm a knitwit.
They are still wearable and I'm sure I'll still get plenty of use from both. But there is less ease than I'm generally comfortable with. If I wear something with a higher waist, like the turquoise skirt, they both look fine. In the future, I think I'll add seam allowances when I trace Burda patterns. Or write nett pattern really large on the pieces (learned that from Metric Pattern Cutting).
No need to be so hard on myself :)